![]() The impedance will be matched to that of a low-Z microphone preamp. The most common DI boxes are passive, which use an internal transformer to isolate ground-level voltages and eliminate any ground loops. If you’ve spent any time looking at DI box options, you’ll have noticed there are “active” and “passive” options. DI boxes allow you to preserve your “dry” signal even while manipulating it with other pieces of equipment. ![]() The “dry” signal is the unaffected signal from your guitar. If you have your guitar running through pedals, effects, amplifiers, or anything that alters the original clean signal out of the guitar, that is considered a “wet” signal. In guitar terminology, a “wet” signal is a fully affected sound. With so many players opting for digital and computer processing, that kind of setup continues to grow in popularity. Reamp boxes can also be useful in very complex live setups where you send the guitar through a DI into line-level processing that then needs to be converted back to instrument-level to feed into an amplifier on stage. The reason you want to use a designated Reamp box for any reamp functions is because it’s built to perform the opposite function, taking a low impedance signal and converting it to a high impedance signal that guitar amplifiers are supposed to receive. These two are often confused for each other, or at least why each must exist independently. This can save a lot of time without having to re-record or perform already recorded parts. This helps the performer play and react to the sound being recorded while preserving the original signal should that need to be altered or reamped later. In a studio setting, these are most often used to track a clean guitar signal at the same time as an affected signal through an amplifier. The most common use for DI boxes are with guitars. The Hosa DIB-443 Sidekick Passive DI Box, for example, has a switch on one side for you to select an instrument (High-Z) or line-level (Low-Z) input, and a “Low-Z” output on the other end. When you see “High-Z” or “Low-Z” labeled on an input or output, it’s telling you the type of impedance signal coming from that respective input or output. “Z” is the letter and mathematical value given for impedance. Unbalanced signals, like those in a guitar’s output jack, would have higher impedance and thus need to be converted for use in microphone preamps or mixers without picking up a lot of undesirable noise. In simple terms, impedance is the opposition of a circuit to electrical current, or how much the circuit impedes the electrical flow. A DI box will convert that signal to a low impedance, balanced signal that will be compatible with outboard equipment and reduce noise for longer runs. For example, guitars have a high impedance, unbalanced output that is prone to pick up noise and degrade signal over longer distances. However, their function is to correct mismatched impedance signals between instruments and equipment. What is a DI Box?ĭI boxes, or “DI’s” (standing for Direct Inject) are primarily known for use in guitar and bass applications in the studio. It’s so commonplace that often it’s accompanied with little-to-no explanation. ![]() I've also tried removing the cap and resistor in parallel with the ground lift switch (as I've seen in other reamp builds) but still it hums.If you’ve spent any amount of time in recording or watching studio recording breakdowns, you’ve likely heard the term “DI” or “DI box” thrown around quite often. I tested continuity between all the ground connections and everything seems fine. ![]() I'm testing this with a fuzz pedal and know the power supply is good because it doesn't hum when going in straight from the interface. What does make a difference is touching the enclosure, so there seems an issue with my wiring. Doesn't make any difference if the ground is lifted or not. It attenuates the level and the impedance knob makes an audible difference. I think the wiring is correct and the damn thing works. Now I've built half a dozen or so guitar pedals from kits and a few other bits and bobs, but I don't have a solid grasp of electronics and I can't read a schematic to save my life. I had to make a couple of changes because 1) I don't want an XLR input and 2) I really didn't want to spend that much on a transformer. So I've built a reamp box based on the Jensen schematic below.
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